Bora Bora, The Real Story

BORA BORA, THE REAL STORY by Wayne Dixon Beauty abounds in Bora Bora, by reputation the most picturesque Pacific island with its jagged peaks surrounded by coral reefs. No wonder Hollywood took it over for filming its epics, and its celebrities took up residence there. Our tour bus paused for pictures in front of what once was Marlin Brando’s cabana next to Jack Nicholson. We also stopped by Bloody Mary’s bar, a character lifted out of James Michener’s “Tales of the South Pacific” to photograph its signboard, a litany of the rich and famous who visited there. But Bora Bora, or Bali Hi as Michener fictionalized, fell on hard times. Our recent American recession became their depression as its main source of income, tourism, dwindled. As our tour continued, we saw deteriorating projects including American resorts and hotels. So what is Bora Bora’s real story, the enduring one? Polynesians landed here centuries ago, some say originally from Asian nations. Their ancient outdoor temples, the marae, remain by the roadside as we pause for more pictures, capturing graffiti-like petroglyphs of symbolic crosshatched turtles. These ingenious adventurers brought their livelihoods with them in hand-carved catamarans to establish new settlements. Their cornucopia included coconuts which today sway in the winds before us and a host of other flora and fauna found through out this cultivated paradise. Christian missionaries planted another seed which took root on the island. They encoded the language and translated their narrative into Tahitian and their efforts bore apostolic-like successes. While some condemned their efforts, particularly whalers and traders, the missionary legacy lived on in indigenous churches they established. Ironically, some of the customs missionaries introduced, such as Sunday-keeping, outlasted their Western origins. When our cruise ship, the Statendam, landed late Sunday afternoon, would-be-tourists were advised, “Nothing will be open today on shore. It’s Sunday, and the custom here is to stay closed. Wait until tomorrow to do your shopping.” On our Monday tour we stopped by one of those legacy churches. As I took pictures around the building, I noticed people had been sleeping on the floor of the back hall. I asked our guide if they were homeless. “No,” he said, they’ve gathered here from around the island for a conference.” European flags followed the missionaries, first the British, then the French. The French have done well by modern Bora Bora, establishing infrastructure and maintaining schools and hospitals. There is no move toward independence here for fear they might go the way of Vanatu and be bereft of advantages accrued as part of the French government where they claim a seat in its parliament. Of course, there were sadder pages in Bora Bora’s history, particularly during World War II. Bora Borans rejected the German-controlled Vichy French government and opted for Charles De Gaulle’s leadership. The former British rule held no sway, but Uncle Sam competed favorably for Bora Boran loyalties. When Americans established a military base there, a flood-gate of material goods opened to the natives. Over twice as many servicemen were stationed there as there were natives. American cannons, quonset huts, wharves, ramps, and an airport remain. When I asked our guide if we would see the cannons, he smiled and said, “No that would be another tour up into the mountains.” “Fortunately,” he added, “they were never needed.”